By: Susanne Pacher

Inspired from my cave adventure yesterday, I met my friends Andrea and Herbert early this morning to go on a hike through the Raabklamm (Raab River Gorge), which is surrounded by limestone mountains that hold more than 700 caves, including the famous Katerloch and the Grasshöhle, two publicly accessible caves and major tourist attractions in the Weiz area.

Again, we drove through the rolling hills of Göttelsberg, Haselbach, Leska and Dürntal to park our car near an entrance point of the Raab Gorge. Andrea had given me a couple of Nordic Walking poles which I was about to try out for the first time. Nordic Walking, also referred to as ”pole walking” or ”fitness walking” is a sport that consists of walking with modified ski poles. Originally popular in Finland and Scandinavia, Nordic Walking has become extremely popular throughout Europe, although it hasn’t quite caught on yet in North America.

I was initially a little skeptical about the concept, but once I tried the walking poles, I realized that walking uphill and downhill both became a lot easier since the poles provide additional support and balance. And the continuous arm motion burns up to 40% more calories than walking alone and facilitates quicker movement, even on flat terrain. The additional benefit of Nordic walking is that a portion of one’s weight is distributed to the poles, which reduces the pressure on the back as well as the knee and hip joints.

Now convinced of the benefits of pole walking, we started our descent into the Raab River Valley on a first gently, then steeply sloping forest path. The Raabklamm is Austria’s longest gorge and divided into the ”Grosse Raabklamm” (large Raab Gorge) with a length of about 10 km, and the ”Kleine Raabklamm” (small Raab Gorge, about 7 km long). We were headed straight towards the Grosse Raabklamm which is the wilder of the two stretches, characterized by vertical limestone cliffs, wooden bridges, suspension bridges, walks beside the river as well as sections of the trail that veer away from the water and take you along an elevated section of the slopes. I had already explored the Kleine Raabklamm earlier last Saturday with my sister-in-law Anneliese.

The Raabklamm itself has remained very natural and undeveloped and is home to a very diverse group of animals such as foxes, badgers as well as moufflons, a species of wild sheep that is also referred to as ”goat antelopes”. Amphibians such as fire salamanders and a diverse selection of predatory birds have contributed to the Raabklamm’s designation as a protected ”Natura 2000” area, a Europe-wide nature conservation area. Plant life along the steep limestone cliffs also includes remainders of ancient pine forests and a variety of alpine plants.

We only covered a section of the entire Grosse Raabklamm and occasionally hiked next to the river, and at other times we hiked away from the river along the slopes of the gorge. My friend Herbert used a couple of the suspension bridges to demonstrate the laws of physics and started shaking the contraption while Andrea and I were walking across. Fortunately the suspension bridges are quite sturdy and all the trails and ladders are well-maintained. After an hour and a half of hiking we arrived at the hydro dam that is part of the local hydro electricity generating system. This area of Austria was electrified in the late 1800s, primarly at the initiative of local electricity pioneer Franz Pichler.To this day hydro-electric power delivers about two thirds of all electricity used in Austria and my home town of Weiz was one of the centres of early hydro power generation.

After admiring some fairly ancient looking hydro generating equipment we hiked back up to the local country road and drove back in my car, which we had parked earlier, to our point of origin. Andrea and Herbert had to leave and I was planning to continue my excursion to Graz, the provincial capital. But before that I had to nurture my appetite, and I was just a minute away from a well-known local restaurant whose Austrian delicacies were certain to hit the spot. Gasthaus Reisinger is one of the restaurants located next to the Raabklamm. Actually the Austrian concept of ”Gasthaus” is a good deal more rustic and down-to-earth than the North American ”restaurant”. A Gasthaus (literally translated: ”guest house”) will usually serve solid traditional Austrian food; frequently it will also feature an outdoor patio since eating in the fresh air is very popular in Austria; and many Gasthäuser also offer overnight accommodation with breakfast.

This is indeed the case with Gasthaus Reisinger which does not only offer Austrian cuisine and a beautiful patio, but also functions as a bed and breakfast, mostly for guests from places like Vienna or other more urban parts of Austria and Germany. I sat down to admire the lengthy menu and decided on two local specialties: a ”Fritattensuppe” (pancake strip soup), an item that I always have to eat several times when I am back home, as well as a ”Mulbratlbrot” – a piece of Austrian rye bread, covered with a thin layer of butter and thin slices of a special tender cut of smoked pork, topped with horseradish.

Rye bread covered by a variety of different cold cuts or smoked meats is a typical in-between meal in Austria, and they are also a popular snack for hikers and visitors of a ”Buschenschank” (a restaurant serving rustic local foods owned and operated by a local wine farmer). On this perfect day the sun was shining down and I thoroughly enjoyed the peaceful and serene rolling hills of Eastern Styria. Once again I realized that the area I grew up in was a truly beautiful neck of the woods. The owner of the restaurant, Mr. Reisinger, brought me my meal and we started chatting a bit about the fact that I was actually a local who had emigrated to Canada more than 20 years ago. He on the other hand used to work full-time in maintainence in a local wood processing plant until a few years ago when his elderly parents started to require full-time care. Since that time he has been running his hospitality establishment full-time together with his wife and children, a typical Austrian family-based business.

The meal was delicious and after picking up an icecream for dessert I was perfectly prepared for my next destination: Graz, the capital of Styria and the second-largest city in Austria. Just minutes from the restaurant I stopped my car to have a look back at these rolling hills, one of my favourite areas when I grew up, and to chat with some cows that were lounging around a large pasture.

Much of Austria’s cattle industry is still based on free-range methods, and adds a significant contribution to the country’s economy. Roughly 80,000 cattle farms own about 2.1 million cattle, of which about 800,000 are dairy cows. Only 5.5% of Austrian cattle farms have more than 100 animals, and the small size of the farms ensures a close connection between the farmer and his/her animals. These cows were obviously enjoying their carefree lifestyle and their unrestricted ability to roam on the hilly pastures.

I continued my drive along 25 km of rolling country roads into Styria’s largest urban centre. With a population of about 250,000 Graz is the second largest city in Austria. Although it is a significant regional and industrial centre, Graz is not as well known as smaller cities like Salzburg and Innsbruck. Due to its impeccably maintained architectural heritage, Graz was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, and became the European Cultural Capital in 2003. Its name is derived from the Slovenian term ”Gradec” which literally means ”little fortress”.

At the eastern entrance of the city there is a suburban area called Mariatrost which is crowned by the large pilgrimage church of Mariatrost. I stopped at the top of the Purberg hill, parked my car and walked past a large restaurant to the front of the church. The Basilica of Mariatrost (Maria Consolation) was built between 1714 and 1724 in baroque style.

The ceiling frescoes in the interior of the church are particularly noteworthy. Two massive 61 m high towers anchor the church and cupola at the eastern end of the structure and can be seen from far away. The front of the church is accessed through a set of stairs called the Angelus Steps. To this day the Basilica of Mariatrost is the second most important pilgrimage church (after Mariazell) in the Austrian province of Styria.

Susanne Pacher is the publisher of http://www.travelandtransitions.com, a web portal for unconventional travel & cross-cultural connections. Check out our FREE ebooks about travel.

Related posts:

1. Hello From Austria – Going Back To My Roots (Part I)
2. Hello From Graz
3. Hello From Austria – Classical Music, Hiking

By: Ben McKay

Walking Boots Advice by Walk and Ramble

About Walking Boots

Whatever your activity, whether it be walking, hiking, mountaineering, rambling or simply a stroll to the pub, having the correct walking boots is essential. The reason for this is to support and protect your feet and to help you feel as comfortable at the end of a long day as you did at the start. The wrong choice of footwear could lead to aching and bruised feet and possibly an early return home. To choose the correct category of walking boot, you must take into consideration: the level of support and protection needed; terrain and conditions; the size and build; foot size and shape of the walking boot / shoe; and the weight carried in your rucksack. Walking boots are generally split up into the following categories, these are (1) Low Level andApproach Hillwalking (2)Trekking and Four Season Mountaineering.

You should match the style of walking boot that you use to the type of walking that you will be doing. If you will only be doing low level and approach style walking you will not require mountaineering style boots. In fact, mountaineering style boots would be too stiff and inflexible for walking comfortably on low level trails. However it is essential that you use a walking boot which is tough enough to cope with the type of walking that you will be doing. Using inadequate footwear can result in sore feet and twisted ankles.

Low Level and Approach Boots

Low level and approach walking footwear are usually low cut walking boots or shoes. These boots are flexible and will only provide adequate support and grip for easier terrain where paths and trails would normally be encountered. Low level paths may be slightly uneven with some lose stones or gravel and would not be particularly steep. Walking boots designed for Low Level and Approach walking will not provide enough support if you intend to carry a full rucksack containing enough gear for overnight camping.

Hillwalking / Trekking Boots

Hillwalking and trekking boots are designed for year round hill walking except in snow or ice conditions. Generally made from leather or fabric with a waterproof liner. These walking boots will have an aggressive tread pattern, a medium level of support and will at least be waterproof for use in wet conditions. Hillwalking / Trekking boots will provide adequate ankle support for trails that are much rockier and steeper than Low Level and Approach walking boots, and will provide enough support for carrying full rucksacks.

Four Season Walking Boots

Four season walking boots are generally a high cut boot offering plenty of support for moderate scrambling and walking in winter conditions. A four season (B1) boot will accommodate a flexible walking crampon (C1). It also offers the support needed for longer backpacking trips where heavy rucksacks will be carried. These walking boots are usually made from full grain leather for waterproofness and support. Mountaineering Generally made from either plastic or leather, mountaineering boots (B3) have a fully stiffened sole ideal for alpine and winter climbing. These boots have high levels of all round support and are compatible with ’step in crampons’ (C3).

Getting the correct size and fit

Quality walking boots are made on a ’last’. This is a foot shaped mould. Everyone’s feet differ in size, shape, width, length and volume. And for some people, their left foot and right foot are considerably different. For this reason it is impossible for a single last to resemble everyone’s feet. Because it is vitally important that your walking boots fit correctly you will probably need to try on quite a few pairs of walking boots before you find the pair that fit you the best. When trying on walking boots always wear the socks that you will be walking in. Since walking socks are thicker than your normal socks they will increase the size of your feet. It is also a good idea to try walking boots on in the afternoon, or after you have been walking around for a while, since your feet increase in size during the day and during exercise.

As a rough guide your walking boots should be a size larger than your normal footwear. However sizes can vary between different manufacturers and even between different types of walking boots by the same manufacturer. It is important not to buy a pair of walking boots that are too small. If your walking boots are a little bit too big you can always wear thicker socks or insert insoles. First of all check the initial fit, put the boots on, do up the laces and stand up. Make sure that they feel comfortable. Your toes should not touch the front of the walking boot, your foot should not be pinched across its width, especially at the toes, and the walking boot should provide support under the arch of your foot. Around and above the ankle the boot should feel snug but not tight – take a walk around your house to make sure the walking boot fits OK. If there is movement between your foot and the walking boot then this will cause blisters on a long hike. The walking boot should not feel loose and your heel should not lift up from the sole. Also check to make sure the boots do not pinch, especially around the top of your toes. If the walking boots are comfortable and fit properly according to the guidelines above then try out a few tests, as follows:

The Finger Test

When walking downhill, especially with a heavy pack on, your feet can slide forwards in your boot. If there is not enough clearance between your toes and the front of your boot, then your foot will bang into the front of your walking boot. This will be uncomfortable and can lead to bruising of your toes. Fully unlace the boot. Move your foot as far forward in the boot as possible, so that your toes just touch the front of the boot. You should be able to slide your finger down inside the walking boot at the heel with just a little friction. If you can do this then there will be enough clearance at the front of the walking boot but if your finger does not fit into the gap, then the boot is too short.

The Sensory Test

Sometimes when wearing your thick walking socks it is difficult to sense whether or not a pair of boots are too tight for your feet. Take off your socks and put on the boots. Check to see whether the boots feel tight or uncomfortable in anyway. In particular check the area where your small toes are located, check around the ball and the arch of your foot. This test quickly elimates boots that are not desinged to fit your feet. If the boot is still OK, put your socks back on and check the boots again. Your feet should feel snug, neither too tight or too loose. Women should pay particular attention to the width of the boot. Some women are used to wearing tight-fitting street shoes. Wearing tight-fitting walking boots can be uncomfortable. It can also cause the walking boot to stretch. If this happens the foot can extend over the edge of the walking boots sole, causing more discomfort.

The Walking Boot Ramp Test

Stand on a sloped board to see how the boots feel on inclines. Stand on the board and force your feet down to the front of the boot. Check that your feet do not slide down the walking boot and become jammed or pinched. Make sure that your toes do not touch the front of the walking boot, and if they do you will require a larger size.

Breaking your walking boots in

When you buy a new pair of walking boots it is likely that they will need to be broken in. The upper part and midsoles of new boots are usually quite stiff. Breaking in your walking boots will reduce this stiffness and the boots will mould themselves to your feet, making them much more comfortable to wear. The best way to break in your walking boots is to initially wear them around the house for a few hours a time at a time. Then wear them outside for a few short walks, increasing the distance with each walk. It is inadvisable to wear boots that have not been broken in on a long hike or expedition, since breaking in your boots this way will almost certainly hurt your feet and cause blisters. Generally Four Season and Mountaineering boots are made from thicker leathers and have stiffer midsoles than lower level walking boots, it is essential that these high performance boots are broken in gradually. If you do notice that your walking boots are rubbing you can prevent blisters by putting an adhesive plaster over the area of you skin that is becoming sore.

Walking Boots Care

After using your walking boots always rinse off any mud and dirt with plain water. Remove any stubborn dirt with a sponge, damp cloth or a soft brush. Dry your walking boots naturally over time in a cool, dry place with good air circulation. Never force dry your boots using heat from fires, heaters or direct sunlight. Overheating your walking boots can cause them to shrink and can damage the uppers. Regularly treat your boots with a suitable waterproofing treatment applicable to the type of boots that you have. Remember to apply waterproofing treatments to tongues, D-rings and hooks. Do not over treat your boots as this can soften the leather and damage the stitching.

Leather Walking Boots

The best waterproofing treatment to use for walking boots depends upon the type of leather than your boots are made from. You can usually us Aqueous Nikwax, Nikwax or G-Wax. Nubuck is a full grain leather where the outer surface of the leather has a finely sanded, texturised finish.

Nubuck leather is a full quality leather and should not be confused with suede. If your boots are made from Nubuck leather, then use Nikwax Nubuck treatment. Using this treatment will tend to flatten the texturised finish of the leather. This can be restored using a suede brush.

Fabric or Suede Walking Boots

These should be waterproofed with Nikwax Fabric and Leather or Graingers G-Sport.

Walking Poles

Walking poles (often called ’trekking poles’) have long been popular with our continental cousins, offering improved security on awkward ground, and reducing the bashing and stresses our poor knees take on a typical day walking in the hills. British walkers on the other hand, no doubt due to our un-continental view of anything related to skiing, have taken much longer to adopt these remarkably effective devices. Thankfully, walking poles are now firmly established among serious outdoor users in the UK, either used singularly, or in pairs.

Walking poles can be divided into two categories: fixed length and two/three section telecopic poles.

Fixed length are often regarded by walkers as the standard ski poles, which although foolproof are awkward to carry when not needed.

Telescopic poles are ideal for walking; they are compact for storage or transport and can be adjusted to suit the height of individual users and their requirements. Three section poles are most common and are compact enough to fit conveniently on the side of a rucksack. Two section poles are less prone to failure, simply due to the fact that they only have one adjustment rather then two.

There are two common adjustment systems for the telescopic (or ’collapsible’) poles.

Internal twist fit is the most common, where a small plastic screw-fit collar expands to hold the pole in place when twisted. Take care not to over twist or tighten more than half a turn once the correct length is selected – otherwise the adjustment can prove difficult to release and damage may occur. Generally any failure is caused by this collar wearing out (though most are replaceable), or the collar becomes totally unscrewed and needs to be refitted.

External collars click into place, cinching the poles together. Unlike the internal system that can freeze together in cold weather, the external collar can be easily unclipped in any conditions.

Both systems have their advantages and disadvantages, and both are very robust and effective. There is a wide selection of ’ski baskets’ for the foot of the pole, but perhaps the best for best all-rounder is the small solid basket: small enough not to get jammed between rocks nor get in the way of your feet, yet still big enough to provide some resistance to sinking into snow or soft ground. If you plan to do a lot of snow work then fit a larger snow basket.

Take care of your walking pole

Poles aren’t indestructible. Take care not to store them underneath heavy items, or use them as pry-bars! Make sure the inside is dry before you store it. You might even lightly wipe the shaft with a light oil or WD-40 before storage. Top brands like Leki walking poles provide an extensive line of spares and accessories, meaning you can repair components when they wear out. Like any great piece of equipment, once you’ve used walking poles you’ll wonder how you ever managed without them

Walking Socks

Modern Performance Walking Socks

Just as a modern computer needs the right software to perform to its optimum, then so with modern outdoor footwear, the choice of the right socks (software) is important to get the most out of your boots (hardware). Gone are the days of having to settle for a pair of crudely made wool socks. Today, the manufacture of performance socks is a highly technical business involving a great deal of research and development work.

To make a high performance sock, it is important to study a range of factors including the activity being performed and the external environment in which the activity will take place. Getting a precise fix on the conditions is the start point. It’s also important to look at the desired performance characteristics of the sock: maintaining an optimal foot temperature and environment, protection against rubbing and blisters, wicking away of moisture and providing outstanding comfort are all desired benefits of walkign socks.

Walking Sock technology

The American brand Thorlo is widely accredited with having ’invented’ the whole arena of modern technical socks for outdoor, ski and sport use. Thorlo now has over 30 years of in-depth scientific and medical research relating to feet and the huge range of movements, pressures, temperatures and environments in the various activities you undertake. Protecting your feet in this multiplicity of environments requires careful product development. Several factors are now hallmarks of Thorlo socks. Amongst these are their use of new fibre developments and some exclusive knitting technology: secrets that they jealously guard.

Many, consumers (and even a number of sock manufacturers) assume that ’natural’ fibres are the best materials to use. But years of research, together with developments in modern fabrics and materials, have exploded this myth. Cotton, for example, is one of the worst materials from which to make socks. It absorbs moisture and holds that moisture next to the skin. It increases rubbing against the skin when wet; loses its shape when used and offers little or no padding. Equally, wool absorbs and retains moisture, takes a long time to dry-out and lacks strength and resiliency. Although wool does have some advantages, man-made fibres like Coolmax, Thermolite, acrylic and nylon all offer other benefits that wool simply cannot match. Protecting your feet in a range of environments requires a carefully selected and intelligently blended mix of many fibres.

Then comes the construction. The best socks are knitted to ensure that they fit perfectly in every area of the foot. It is not uncommon to see four of five different knit areas in one sock, as they vary the construction to give the best possible protection and comfort in each area of the foot. Thorlo actually customise their knitting machinery to uniquely knit and construct each sock to give the exact performance required.

Walking Sock tips

So when you are seeking the best performance from your footwear, it is important to give careful consideration to the ’software’. Look for socks that have been specifically made for your chosen activity and follow these guiding principles:

Seek out socks that have carefully blended yarns to deliver the performance and protection for your feet.

Look for a high quality knit construction. Check carefully the construction and shape of the socks (never select tube socks!)

Pay careful attention to the elastication at the neck of the sock and the seaming at the toe.

Ensure that the socks you select clearly show that they are designed to maintain the right temperature, will protect your feet against sheer and impact pressures, will wick moisture away from your feet and provide the right level of comfort and stimulus for your feet.

If you follow these tips and take a little time to select the right socks, then you can ensure that you will get the best from your walking boots and also help to ensure that your feet are well protected and comfortable.

The walking boots discoussed above are available in men’s walking boots and women’s walking boots. Each have different shapes and sizes, and so always make sure you’re trying on the right sex of walking boots!

This information is provided for general guidance only, and so if you are looking for specific and possibly more up-to-date advice on an item or range of walking or outdoor clothing, please do not hesitate to contact us. We will be glad to help.

Ben McKay – Walk and Ramble: www.walkandramble.co.uk
Online Walking Shop, selling walking and outdooor clothes, walking boots, rucksacks, walking poles and other equipment, whilst providing excellent advice and customer service for almost 20 years.

UK Tel: 01925 244 434

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By: dresscloth

This article is about snow footwear. For the resort, see Snowshoe Mountain. For the hare, see Snowshoe Hare. For other uses, see Snowshoe (disambiguation). 

Snowshoes, sometimes colloquially referred to as webs, are footwear for walking over snow. Snowshoes work by distributing the weight of the person over a larger area so that the person’s foot doesn’t sink completely into the snow, a quality called ”flotation”.

charmed”>http://www.himfr.com/buy-charmed_top/”>charmed topTraditional snowshoes have a hardwood frame with rawhide lacings. Some modern snowshoes are similar, but most are made of light metal while others are a single piece of plastic attached to the foot to spread the weight. In addition to distributing the weight, snowshoes are generally raised at the toe for maneuverability. They must not accumulate snow, hence the latticework, and require bindings to attach them to the feet. While today they are mainly used for recreation, primarily by hikers and runners who like to continue their hobby in wintertime, in the past they were essential tools for fur traders, trappers and anyone whose life or living depended on the ability to get around in areas of deep and frequent snowfall. Even today, snowshoes are necessary equipment for forest rangers and others who must be able to get around areas inaccessible to motorized vehicles when the snow is deep.

Before humanity built snowshoes, nature provided examples. Several animals, most notably the snowshoe hare, had evolved over the years with oversized feet enabling them to move more quickly through deep snow.

The origin and age of snowshoes are not precisely known, although historians believe they were invented from 4,000 to 6,000 years ago, probably starting in Central Asia.[citation needed] British archaeologist Jacqui Wood hypothesized that the equipment interpreted to be the frame of a backpack of the Chalcolithic mummy tzi was actually part of a snowshoe.[1] Strabo wrote that the inhabitants of the Caucasus used to attach flat surfaces of leather under their feet and that the Armenians used round wooden surfaces, something akin to blocks, instead. However, the ”traditional” webbed snowshoe as we know it today had direct origins to Northern First Nations people, e.g., the Huron, Cree, and so forth. Samuel de Champlain wrote, referencing the Huron and Algonquin First Nations, in his travel memoirs (V.III, pg. 164), ”Winter, when there is much snow, they (the Indians) make a kind of snowshoe that are two to three times larger than those in France, that they tie to their feet, and thus go on the snow, without sinking into it, otherwise they would not be able to hunt or go from one location to the other”.

Two groups of snowshoe pioneers diverged early on, setting patterns that can still be seen today. One group abandoned the snowshoe as it migrated north to what is now Scandinavia, eventually turning the design into the forerunners of the Nordic ski. The other went northeast, eventually crossing the Bering Strait into North America.

Here, their descendants developed the most advanced and diverse snowshoes prior to European exploration and colonization. Nearly every Native American tribe developed its own particular shape of shoe, the simplest and most primitive being those of the far north. The Inuit have two styles, one being triangular in shape and about 18 inches (45 cm) in length, and the other almost circular, both reflecting the need for high flotation in deep, loose and powdery snow. However, contrary to popular perception, the Inuit did not use their snowshoes much since they did most of their foot travel in winter over sea ice or on the tundra, where snow does not pile up deeply.

Southward the shoe becomes gradually narrower and longer, the largest being the hunting snow-shoe of the Cree, which is nearly 6 ft (1.8 m) long and turned up at the toe. Even smaller models, developed most notably by the Iroquois, are narrower and shorter, reflecting the need for maneuverability in forested areas where wetter and shallower snow cover during winter made flotation less important.

The Plains Indians wore snowshoes on their wintertime buffalo hunts before horses were introduced. Despite their great diversity in form, snowshoes were, in fact, one of the few cultural elements common to all First Nations tribes that lived where the winters were snowy, in particular, the Northern regions.

Snowshoes were slowly adopted by Europeans in what became Canada and the United States, with the French voyageurs well in advance of British settlers. According to the Encyclop?dia Britannica, French Voyageurs were primarily 18th and 19th century French Canadian fur traders who explored the frontier waterways by canoe. Superior French snowshoeing skill almost turned the French and Indian War, a conflict that saw two engagements named the Battle on Snowshoes, to their favor.

But the British were quick learners. The Oxford English Dictionary reports the term being used in English as early as 1674. Sixteen years later, after a French-Indian raiding party attacked a British settlement near what is today Schenectady, New York, the British took to their own snowshoes and pursued the attackers for almost 50 miles (90 km), ultimately recovering both people and goods taken by their attackers.

The ”teardrop” snowshoes worn by lumberjacks are about 40 inches (1 m) long and broad in proportion, while the tracker’s shoe is over 5 feet (1.5 m) long and very narrow. This form, the stereotypical snowshoe, resembles a tennis racquet, and indeed the French term is raquette de neige.

This form was copied by the Canadian snowshoe clubs of the late 18th century. Originally founded for military training purposes, they became the earliest recreational users of snowshoes.

The snowshoe clubs such as the Montreal Snowshoe club (1840) shortened the teardrop to about 40 inches long (110 cm) and 15 inches (380 mm) to 18 inches (460 mm) broad, slightly turned up at the toe and terminating in a kind of tail behind. This is made very light for racing purposes, but much stouter for touring or hunting. The tail keeps the shoe straight while walking.

Another variant, the ”bearpaw,” ends in a curved heel instead of a tail. While many early enthusiasts found this more difficult to learn on, as they were thicker in the middle and rather cumbersome, they did have the advantage of being easier to pack and nimbler in tight spaces. Two forms of traditional bearpaw snowshoes developed; an eastern version used by ”spruce gummers” consisting of an oval frame with wooden cross braces, and a western version with a rounded triangular frame and no wooden bracing.

Traditional snowshoes are made of a single strip of some tough wood, usually white ash, curved round and fastened together at the ends and supported in the middle by a light cross-bar, the space within the frame thus made being filled with a close webbing of dressed caribou or neat’s-hide strips, leaving a small opening just behind the cross-bar for the toe of the moccasined foot. They are fastened to the moccasin by leather thongs, sometimes by buckles. Such shoes are still made and sold by native peoples.

Outside of indigenous populations and some competitions such as Arctic Winter Games, very few of the old-fashioned snowshoes are actually used by enthusiasts anymore, although some value them for the artisanship involved in their construction. They are most commonly seen as decorations, mounted on walls, or on mantels, in ski lodges.

Even though many enthusiasts prefer aluminum snowshoes there is still a large group or snowshoe enthusiasts that prefer wooden snowshoes. Wood snowshoes provide more than twice the flotation that metal snow shoes do while weighing the same. Plus the frames on wood snowshoes can freeze like their metal counterparts. Many enthusiasts also prefer a wood snowshoes because they are very quiet.

While recreational use of snowshoes began with snowshoe clubs in Quebec, Canada (who held events where races and hikes were combined with fine food and drink), the manufacture of snowshoes for recreational purposes really began in the late 19th century, when serious recreational use became more widespread.

In the late 20th century the snowshoe underwent a radical redesign. It started in the 1950s when the Vermont-based Tubbs company created the Green Mountain Bearpaw, which combined the shortness of that style with an even narrower width than had previously been used. This rapidly became one of the most popular snowshoes of its day.

In 1972, experimenting with new designs in Washington’s Cascade Mountains, Gene and Bill Prater created the snowshoe as we know it today. They began using aluminum tubing and replaced the lace with neoprene and nylon decking. To make them easier to use in mountaineering, the Praters developed a hinged binding and added cleats to the bottom of the shoe.

The Sherpa Snowshoe company started manufacturing these ”Western” shoes and they proved very popular. Eastern snowshoers were a bit more skeptical at first, believing that the style was unnecessary in the east, until the Praters demonstrated their improved effectiveness on New Hampshire’s Mount Washington. In time all users switched to the Sherpas.

These use an aluminum or stainless steel frame and take advantage of technical advances in plastics and injection molding to make a lighter and more durable shoe. They require little maintenance, and usually incorporate aggressive crampons.

Some, such as those made by Mountain Safety Research, use no metal at all and also come with detachable tail extenders. Newer models have heel-lifters, called ”ascenders”, that flip up to facilitate hill climbing.

The use of solid decking in place of the standard latticework of lacing came as a surprise to many enthusiasts, since it challenged a long-held belief that the lattice was necessary to prevent snow from accumulating on the shoe. In practice, however, it seems that very little snow comes through the openings in either type of shoe.

Neoprene/nylon decks also displayed superior water resistance, neither stretching as rawhide will when wet nor requiring annual treatment with shellac, features that were immediately appreciated. Eventually they were replaced with even lighter materials such as polypropylene.

These more athletic designs have helped the sport enjoy a renaissance after a period of eclipse when winter recreationists showed more interest in skiing. In the U.S., the number of snowshoers tripled during the 1990s.

In fact, ski resorts with available land are beginning to offer snowshoe trails to visitors, and some popular hiking areas are almost as busy in the colder months as they are on warm summer weekends.

As many winter recreationists rediscover snowshoeing, many more new models of snowshoe are becoming available. Ski areas and outdoor equipment stores are also offering snowshoes for rent; it is an excellent way for those interested in snowshoeing to decide what type of shoe is right for them.

Snowshoes today are divided into three types: aerobic/running (small and light; not intended for backcountry use); recreational (a bit larger; meant for use in gentle to moderate walks of 3-5 miles (5-8 km) at a time) and mountaineering (the largest, meant for serious hill-climbing, long-distance trips and off-trail use). Sizes are often given in inches, even though snowshoes are nowhere near perfectly rectangular. Mountaineering shoes can be at least 30 inches (76 cm) long by 10 inches (25 cm) wide; a lighter pair of racing shoes can be slightly narrower and 25 inches (64 cm) or shorter.

Regardless of configuration, all wooden shoes are referred to as ”traditional” and all shoes made of other materials are called ”modern.”

Not withstanding these variations in planned use, larger users should plan on buying larger snowshoes. A common formula is that for every pound (0.45 kg) of body weight, there should be one square inch (6.5 cm) of snowshoe surface per snowshoe to adequately support the wearer. Users should also consider the weight of any gear they will be packing, especially if they expect to break trail. Those planning to travel into deep powder look for even larger shoes.

Many manufacturers now include weight-based flotation ratings for their shoes, although there is no standard for setting this as of yet.

When traditional wooden shoes were still popular, it was common to buy the bindings separately, much like downhill skis (and many wooden shoes are still sold this way). They were commonly called ”H” bindings, since they consisted of a strap around the heel crossing a strap around the toe and one at the instep, forming a rough version of that letter.

On modern shoes, there are two styles of binding: limited-rotation, in which the toe is not allowed to go below the decking; and free-rotation, in which it is. The former is preferred for racing purposes as it prevents the tail from dragging, the latter for climbing steep slopes as it allows kick steps. The heel is always left free.

A series of straps, usually three, are used to fasten the foot to the snowshoe. Some styles of binding utilize a cup for the toe. It is important that a user be able to manipulate these straps easily, as removing or securing the foot often must be done outdoors in cold weather with bare hands, exposing him or her to the possibility of frostbite.

The loose ends of the straps are always placed outside the direction of travel to avoid stepping on them while snowshoeing. Under some conditions, however, accumulations of snow develop into ball-shaped attachments to them, which must periodically be removed as they become annoying.

In 1994, Bill torres and a younger associate developed the step-in binding, designed to make it easier for snowshoers wearing hard-shelled plastic boots (serious mountaineers) to change from snowshoes to crampons and back again as needed.

Snowshoers often use trekking poles as an accessory to help them keep their balance on the snow. Some manufacturers have begun making special snowshoeing models of their poles, with larger baskets more like those found on ski poles (which can also be used). It is not necessary to have them, however.

Other than that, no other special accessories are required. Most types of footwear can be worn with snowshoes, although hiking boots are the preferred choice among most recreational users (except racers, who prefer running shoes). Ski boots, however, will not work with snowshoes, requiring backcountry skiers to carry other footwear for the snowshoe portion of their trip.

If going into deep snow, snowshoers will often take along gaiters to keep snow from getting into their boots from above. Some manufacturers make their snowshoes with boot or toe covers to provide the same protection.

A carrier of some type is also advisable, particularly if the trip will not take place entirely on snowshoes. Some backpack manufacturers have designed special packs with ”daisy chains,” strips of looped nylon webbing on which the shoes can be secured for the duration of the journey. Snowshoe manufacturers, too, have begun including carriers and tote bags for their products, if for no other reason than to prevent the often-sharp cleats on the bottom from damaging surfaces they come in contact with.

Since snowshoeing is commonly done in cold weather, users typically prepare for it by dressing in layers and carrying the appropriate equipment.

When putting on snowshoes, left is distinguished from right by which way the loose ends of the binding straps point: always outward, to avoid stepping on them repeatedly.

Snowshoes function best when there is enough snow beneath them to pack a layer between them and the ground, usually at a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) or more.

Snowshoeing can be done anywhere there is sufficient snow. There is no need to go to a special area of any kind, although such areas may offer some amenities not found in the typical woodlot or golf course.

It is often said by snowshoers that if you can walk, you can snowshoe. This is true, but snowshoeing properly requires some slight adjustments to walking.

The method of walking is to lift the shoes slightly and slide the overlapping inner edges over each other, thus avoiding the unnatural and fatiguing ”straddle-gait” that would otherwise be necessary. A snowshoer must be willing to roll his or her feet slightly as well. An exaggerated stride works best when starting out, particularly with larger or traditional shoes.

New snowshoers find the learning curve to be quite steep. It helps that accidental, humiliating and potentially injurious falls are far less common to snowshoeing than other winter sports.

Walking skills are easily transferrable to straightforward snowshoe travel, but this is not always the case with turning around. While a snowshoer with space to do so can, and usually does, simply walk in a small semicircle, on a steep slope or in close quarters such as a boreal forest this may be impractical or impossible. It is thus necessary in such circumstances to execute a ”kick turn” similar to the one employed on skis: lifting one foot high enough to keep the entire snowshoe in the air while keeping the other planted, putting the foot at a [180 degree angle] and parallel to the other (or as close as possible for the situation and the snowshoer’s physical comfort), then planting it on the snow and quickly repeating the action with the other foot. This is much easier to accomplish with poles.

Kick turns do, however, put considerable strain on the hip muscles, and if many have to be made during a snowshoeing trip, these can be very sore the next day.

While the cleating and traction improvements to modern snowshoes have greatly enhanced snowshoers’ climbing abilities, on very steep slopes it is still beneficial to make ”kick steps,” kicking the toes of the shoes into the snow to create a kind of snow stairs for the next traveler to use.

Alternatively, snowshoers can use two techniques borrowed from skis: the herringbone (walking uphill with the shoes spread outward at an angle to increase their support) and the sidestep.

Once a trail has been broken up a mountain or hill, snowshoers often find a way to speed up the return trip that manages to also be fun and rests the leg muscles: glissading the trail, or sliding down on their buttocks. This does not damage the trail, and in fact helps pack the snow better for later users.

Great distances can be descended by glissading, and any number of methods to control one’s speed and direction are available to the experienced snowshoer: the shoes, poles, hands (if properly gloved), body English and self-arrest techniques.

In situations where they must break trail downhill and thus cannot glissade, snowshoers sometimes run downhill in exaggerated steps, sliding slightly on the snow as they do, an option sometimes called ”step sliding.” If carrying poles and properly experienced, they can also employ skiing techniques such as telemarking.

On newfallen snow it is necessary for a snowshoer to ”break” a trail. This is very exhausting (it may require up to 50% more energy than simply following behind) even on level terrain, and frequently in groups this work is shared among all participants, sometimes in shifts as short as three minutes. It is thus not recommended to snowshoe solo, particularly up a mountain, without a broken route.

A trail breaker can improve the quality of the ensuing route by using a technique, similar to the hiking rest step, called ”stamping”: pausing momentarily after each step before putting full weight on the foot. This helps smooth the snow underneath and compacts it even better for the next user.

A well-broken trail is usually a rut in the snow about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) deep and 2 feet (61 cm) wide. While it may appear after heavy use as if it is possible to ”bareboot” or walk it without benefit of snowshoes, this practice is frowned upon by serious snowshoers as it leads to ”postholing,” or roughening of the trail from places where boots have fallen through (initial appearances to the contrary, the snow in a broken trail is not sufficiently packed to support the more concentrated weight of a foot).

A young snowshoer getting up close and personal with nature.

Snowshoeing expands the potential for exercise available in the wintertime. As of 2006, at least 500 American schools, mostly but not exclusively in the Northeast have started offering snowshoe programs in their physical education classes to help combat obesity. It had the added benefit of being gentler on the feet than walking or running the equivalent routes, since snow cushions the foot’s impact.

For the same reason, it is less detrimental to the environment, since the snow likewise buffers the earth against the impact of so many hikers and campers, cutting back on trail erosion and other effects of heavy use.

While the cold creates its own safety risks, there is less chance of a hiker getting lost on snowshoes, since they can follow their own trail back.

Snowshoeing makes even familiar hikes different and new. If the snow is deep enough, obstacles such as large boulders and fallen logs can be more easily bypassed. Winter transforms familiar forests into something wonderful and strange, and clearer, bluer skies in winter often afford more sweeping, longer-range views from favorite lookouts than are available in summer situations. The stillness of the air, quiet and snow cover give nature a pristine feel that is sometimes lacking at other times of year.

As Florence Page Jaques put it in her book, Snowshoe Country, ”I love the deep silence of the midwinter woods. It is a stillness you can rest your whole weight against … This silence is so profound you are sure it will hold and last.”

Immoderate snowshoeing leads to serious lameness of the feet and ankles which Canadian voyageurs called mal de raquette. Modern snowshoes are much lighter and more comfortable so that lameness caused by snowshoeing is now very rare.

Nonetheless, many snowshoers find that their legs, particularly their calf muscles, take some time to get used to snowshoeing again at the start of each winter. Frequently the first serious trip leaves them sore for several days afterwards.

A snowshoer packing downhill skis.

The resurgence of interest in snowshoeing in the late 20th century was in some part due to snowboarders, who took to them as a way to reach backcountry powder bowls and other areas while they were still banned from most ski areas. Their similarities to snowboards, in shape and binding, led many of them to continue use even after snowboarders were allowed to use most ski slopes.

Downhill skiers, too, found snowshoes useful in reaching the same areas.

Another popular expedition, particularly among hikers, is the ”ski-shoe” trip combining a cross-country ski portion on a level, wide trail with a snowshoe up a less skiable section, usually to a mountain summit.

Runners have found that using light snowshoes allows them to continue exercising and racing during winter. Like their warm-weather counterparts, events cover all distances, from sprints of 100 m to the 100 km ”Iditashoe.” There are even hurdle events.

Snowshoe segments have become common in many multisport events and adventure races, including a required snowshoe segment in the winter quadrathlon. Some competitors in those events like Sally Edwards and Tom Sobal have emerged as stars.

While snowshoe racing has probably been around as long as there have been snowshoes, as an organized sport it is relatively new. The United States Snowshoe Association was founded in 1977 to serve as a governing body for competitive snowshoeing. It is headquartered in Corinth, New York, which considers itself the ”Snowshoe Capital of the World” as a result. Similar organizations, such as the European Snowshoe Committee and Japan’s Chikyu Network, exist in other countries and there is an international competitive level as well.

Snowshoe races are part of the Arctic Winter Games and the winter Special Olympics. However, they are not yet an Olympic event.

Rawhide webbing

The rawhide webbing of traditional snowshoes, as noted above, needed regular waterproofing. Spar varnish is the preferred waterproofing for traditional snowshoes. A light sanding is preferred before 3 coats of spar varnish is applied. Modern snowshoes need no regular maintenance save a sharpening of cleats if desired.

Both kinds of snowshoe, however, can and do break. The most common damage suffered is to the frame, which can be splinted with a stick or piece of wood if necessary. Decking rarely gets broken, but if it is punctured and the hole looks as if it might continue to grow, the best solution is the patching kits made for tents.

Cable ties can serve many purposes in repairing snowshoes. They can splint frames in a pinch, replace a broken rivet, secure a tie or lace, and repair winter clothing as well.

For more specific information about apparel_fashion, try visitingwww.himfr.com,one of the most popular China apparel_fashion trade platform on the web.

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1. The Snowshoe Cat
2. Snowshoe for a Great Aerobic Workout
3. Heelys

By: Elisha Burberry

When most people think of a winter holiday they instantly think of skiing. As the world’s oldest, and most popular winter sport, thousands of people head to the mountains of Europe, North America, and some even more exotic locations every year to enjoy the delights of zooming down a snow covered mountain on a pair of planks. But what about those who want to enjoy a winter holiday without risking life and limb?

Well, there is a growing number of people who are heading out to ski resorts, yet who have no intention whatsoever of downhill skiing. Those who want to enjoy the great outdoors without the danger of snapping their bones, should try snowshoeing. Here, a special shoe is attached to your boots which allow you to walk easily over deep snow without sinking. Armed with a pair of poles you can wander along winter paths and enjoy the beautiful frosty scenery. Snow shoeing is ideal for young and old, as you can go at your own pace making it a perfect family activity.

Animal lovers might prefer to indulge in a less strenuous activity by taking a ride on a husky dog sled. Trips can be booked for a few hours, a full day, or even multi-day expeditions. After learning how to handle the sled and picking up a few of the basic dog commands, you’ll be able to set off through the snow after shouting ”Mush! Mush!” at your pack of Husky hounds.

If you’re staying in a chalet or holiday cottage near a large town, then find out if there will be a Christmas market running. Throughout the festive period many places in Europe host Christmas Markets, offering visitors the chance to shop for local specialities, drink a glass of warming mulled wine, buy locally made crafts, watch live music, see impressive lighting displays, and listen to carol signers.

Adrenaline junkies who want a bit more power between their legs can get their throttle fix by going snowmobiling. Most ski resort areas have a snowmobile circuit which can range from a simple loop taking a couple of minutes, to backcountry expeditions which can last all day. Snowmobiles are very easy to operate, and anyone can pick up the basics within a few minutes. Instructors will always be on hand to help and guide you.

And finally, if you like your fish fresh, then why not give ice fishing a go? Especially popular in Scandinavia and the Baltic States, all you need is a short fishing rod or hand line, an ice drill and plenty of warm clothing. Organised trips are on offer for a few pounds an hour, and you also get to keep your catch.

So remember, winter holidays are no longer just for skiers – anyone can head out to the mountains and enjoy the winter wonderland without having to worry about ending up in hospital!

Elisha Burberry is an online, freelance journalist and keen traveller and watersports enthusiast. Originally from Scotland, she now resides in London.

Related posts:

1. There’s More to Snow Than Skiing – Alternative Activities for Winter Holidays
2. Spring Skiing; Winter is Over, But the Snow Must Go On!
3. Winter Activities For Kids

By: Pete Edwards

Nordic Ski Walking poles help to turbo charge anyone’s walking campaign. Walking, hiking and trekking with poles makes walking much more effective by burning more calories and by utilizing all the major muscle groups. Walking with the correct length walking poles radically reduces the stress to the shins, knees, hips and back. Even individuals with severe balance issues, including MS & Parkinson’s find that walking with the correct length poles radically improves their stability and balance.

Over 6 million Europeans are Nordic Ski Walking with special poles everyday.

After hosting hundreds of Nordic Ski Walking Clinics, Pete Edwards the owner/founder/coach of SkiWalking.com Nordic Walking Poles launched The American Nordic Walking System. The American Nordic Walking System is based on over 25 years of coaching experience – running, ski racing and more recently Nordic Ski Walking. Skiers do not use cheap twist-locking adjustable length poles and neither should you.

Quality one-piece Nordic Ski Walking poles are safer, lighter and more much durable than cheap twist-locking adjustable/telescoping/adjustable poles.

Disadvantages of Twist-Locking Adjustable Length Poles:

A quick review of the past users of twist-locking poles indicates that these adjustable length poles proved to be a hassle – while one-piece poles are user friendly and hassle free. Twist-locking poles tend to vibrate and rattle – Nordic Ski Walking should be a silent sport. Often, individuals cannot get their twist-locking poles to maintain their desired length or if tightened, cannot get them to loosen. Real Nordic Ski Walking Poles come with real Nordic Walking Straps – kind of like a fingerless glove. Poles that have simple loop straps or no straps are not real Nordic Ski Walking poles. Many sporting goods stores are accidentally selling twist-locking snowshoe poles, ski poles and trekking poles as Nordic Ski Walking Poles too.

Many of SkiWalking.com’s new customers accidentally purchased adjustable poles (hiking/trekking/snow shoe/nordic walking) from less knowledgeable sources or were given them as well meaning gifts. Hundreds of Mother’s Day and Father’s Day gift recipients were given twist-locking poles and had problems with them (unexpected collapsing, one pole shortens a few inches while walking, twist locks break, poles totally pull apart and other issues) and ended up returning these twist-locking poles—then purchased our safer, lighter and more durable one-piece poles.

Seniors and individuals with balance issues should not use adjustable poles. Edwards states that he wouldn’t be able to sleep at night if he scammed seniors and folks with balance issues into buying twist-locking poles.

All of us have had telescoping tools and/or tri-pods that proved totally uncooperative. Obviously, one-piece tools and tri-pods perform better, last longer and are hassle free.

The Many Myths About Twist-Locking Adjustable Length Poles:

Manufacturers of twist-locking poles make wild claims that their telescoping poles are necessary for travel, for climbing hills and coming down hills. As a ski coach, Edwards and his athletes don’t travel with twist-locking poles because the strength and durability of one-piece poles is superior. The claims that you need to shorten your poles for up-hills and lengthen your poles for the downhills are false also. With the correct technique and length, one-piece poles perform perfectly in all terrain and conditions. Perfect length poles are custom fit to each individual’s height. Walking with one-piece poles makes hill climbing amazingly easier. Coming down hills with those same perfect length poles and poles planted out in front radically reduces the stress to the knees.

Ski Racers don’t change poles at the base of a hill climb and there is no reason for Nordic Ski Walkers to change pole length either.

Nordic Ski Walking and Nordic Running:

Edwards and his family Nordic Ski Walk at least six days a week up mile-long Alligator Hill and their one-piece poles perform flawlessly on the climb and the return descent. These same one-piece poles are fantastic for Nordic Running on this same hilly trail as well as on the beach. Twist-locking poles are not made to withstand the added stress of Nordic Running.

Travel With Confidence:

When it comes to travel, twist-locking poles are perceived as better for travel – fitting into backpacks and suitcases. Please note the adjustable poles and their twist-lock mechanisms are not recommended due to the potenial hassle, inconvenience and safety risk. Traveling with one-piece poles packed in a padded pole bag is the best option and the only option recommended by The American Nordic Walking System. Ski racers know this simple fact when traveling with their favorite race skis and race poles.

Americans Deserve The Best & The Safest:

From his experience as the USA’s most active Nordic Ski Walking coach, Edwards has found that the best poles and safest poles for all Americans are one piece poles – not twist-locking adjustable poles. The Finns, who officially launched Nordic Walking 10 years ago, never envisioned using adjustable poles for Nordic Ski Walking and/or Nordic Running – they use sturdy one-piece designs that are durable and user friendly. Please note that when individuals bring their twist-locking adjustable poles to his clinics they don’t like the twist-lock mechanism. One lady told a class of 40 enthusiastic Nordic Walkers that she super-glued her $140 titanium Leki poles the night before because they kept slipping.

Happy Customer Comments:

Edwards receives hundreds of thank you cards and emails each moth. Here are just a few examples of the wonderful feedback Edwards has received:

Pete – I am super pleased with your nordic ski walking poles. I read your comments about ”adjustable” poles and you are so right. I purchased a pair of adjustable walking poles less than a month ago from a large retail chain store. The adjustable poles would not stay locked

Have a good day,

Marilynn

Thanks for your honesty and help with my walking pole order. I returned the telescoping trekking poles from REI that I received for Father’s Day and purchased your one-piece poles in the perfect length for me. You have a wonderful, hassle-free product.

Keep up the good work,

Jim

For more information please check out their website: www.SkiWalking.com

Email: GetFit@SkiWalking.com

Toll Free: 877-SKIWALKING or 877-754-9255

Pete Edwards has been coaching runners and skiers of all ages and fitness levels for over 25 years. Edwards is a former ski school director, running coach, personal trainer and the owner/founder of The American Nordic Walking System and SKIWALKING.COM Nordic Walking Poles, headquartered in Glen Arbor, Michigan. Edwards has coached State Champions (individuals + teams), All-Americans and National Champions. He has also introduced Nordic Walking to 1000’s of Americans through Nordic Walking clinics, radio interviews, newspaper interviews and TV interviews. He has skied in 50K marathons and run 26.2 miles marathons. His skiers have been hill bounding and ski walking with poles for years in the summer when deprived of snow. Hosting Nordic Walking clinics is extremely enjoyable for Edwards and he especially enjoys hosting Nordic Walking clinics for MS and Parkinson’s support groups.

Related posts:

1. National Trails Day and Nordic Walking – a Perfect Fit
2. Free Nordic Walking Clinics Coming to the Village of Bay Ridge Retirement Community on Tuesday, October 21, 2008 – Open to the Public
3. Nordic Ski Walking Poles Radically Improve Balance & Stability